Shoe-sewing machine



'Feb. 8', 1927.

' 1,616,711 L, E. TOPHAM I SHOE SEWING MACHINE Original l iled Dec 1'7, 1917 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Ei a l 'nvenl ar Mamm 5 7 Feb, 8, 1927. 1,616,711

' L. E. TOPHAM snow SEWING MACHINE Original Filed Dec. 17, .1917 4 Sheets-She et 2 Patented Feb. 8, 1927.

LAURENCE n. TOPHAM, or swaixrrsco'rr, massacnusnrrs, AssIenoR- T UNITED SHOE MACHINERY coaroaerron, or rarnasoi nnw JERSEY, A coaroaa'rroiv on NEW JERSEY.

SHOE-SEWING MACHINE.-

Application filed December 17, 1917, Serial No. 207,506. -Renewed January 2c, 1925.

The invention relates'to shoe sewing n1a-' chines, and more particularly to machines of such attachments the weltv cutting knife I is constructed and arranged to cut a stitch receiving groove in the welt, while in others of this class in-which the shoe is supported on a ack and relative movements are automatically imparted to the stitch-forming mechanism and jack tomaintain the. shoe in the proper positionrelative to the stitchs forming mechanism as the point of operation is transferred about the shoe, which machines for convenience may be termed automatic shoe sewing machines.

The invention is illustratedin the present application as embodied in a machine for sewing outsoles to the welts of welted shoes.

The invention, however, is not limited in its application to automatic outsole shoe sewing machines, but certain features thereof may be embodied in other automatic shoe sewing machines.

The present commercial machines for sewing soles to thecwelts of welted shoes in the operation of which the shoe is held and manipulated by the operator, are provided with welt cutting attachments for operating on the welt along a certainportion thereof during the sewing of a seam. In certain the knife is constructed and arranged to bevel off the outer edge of the welt. In the operation of such attachments the welt cutting knife is held out of operation when the 1 machine is sewing along the shank of the shoe on the side of the shoe upon which the seam is started, is thrown into operation when the forepart of the shoe is reached,

and is thrown out of operation when the maerator is required during the sewing of a chine arrives at the shank upon the side ,of the shoe last sewn- The weltcutting knife is arranged to I be actuated from a hand lever so that the knife may be thrown into and out of operation by the operator at any point in the sewing of aseam by a suitable movement ofthe hand lever. Such attachments are impractical in an automatic sewing machine, since the attention of the opshoe in order to actuate the hand lever to throw the knife into and out of operation at the proper points in the formation ;of the Seam.

One object of the present invention is to producean automatic shoe sewing machine part of the operator during the operation of the machine.

Another object of the invention is to provide automatic outsole sewing. machines with welt cutting'me'chanism which will operate upon; certain predetermined portions of the welt and leave other portionsof the welt uncut without requiringlthe attention of the l operator.

With these and other objects in view, the

invention consists in the novel and improved features hereinafter described and larly pointed out in the claims.

While the invention is particularly advantageous in its application to automatic sewing machines, certain features thereof may be applied to machines in which the shoe is held and manipulated by the operator, and it is to be understood that except as defined in the claims the invention is not limited to any particular machine or type tion or combination.

The invention will be readily understood from the accompanying drawings illustrating the invention in its preferred form, and the following detailed description of the" constructions therein shown.

In the drawings Figure 1 is a view, in front elevation, of a machine embodying the invention; Fig. 2 is a view, in side elevation, of the machine looking from the right-hand side, thereofyFi 3 is a plan view of the machine; Fig. 4 is a detail View, in front elevation, illustrating particularly the edge gage and welt cutting mechanisms;

particu- .of machine, or to any particular construe I Fig. 5 1s a view, in side elevation, ofthe partsillustrated infFig. 4; and Fig. 6 is a detall view, in side elevation, illustrating certain parts of the sewing and welt cutting mechanism.

The machine illustrated in the drawings,

with the exception of-the welt cutting mechanism, has substantially the same construction, arrangement and mode of operationof parts as the machine illustrated and de" scribed'in applicants pending application Serial No. 160,751,

filed April 9th, 191,7.

The sewing mechanism of the illustrated machine comprises av curved hook needle 2, a curved awl 4, a shuttle 6, a tension wheel 8, and certain other. devices cooperating with these parts to form a lockstitch seam. machine is also provided with a work support 10 and a presser-foot 12 arranged to engage opposite sides of the work. The operating parts of the sewing mechanism are driven from a series of cams mounted upon a cam shaft 14.

The lasted shoe is supported during the sewing operation by a jack 16 mounted on the upper end of a spindle 18 supported at its lower end.' The supporting devices for the spindle are arranged to permit lateral turning movements and longitudinal and lateral tipping movements to be imparted to the jack to maintain the shoe inthe proper position with'relation to the stitch-forming mechanism as the point of operation is transferred about the shoe; During the sewing operation the shoe is held at all times at the point of operation by the needle or awl or by the work support and presser-foot so that the tipping and turning movements imparted to the jack will tip and turn the shoe about the point of operation. The jack spindle is supported yieldingly in a vertical direction so that the jack and the shoe carried thereby can move vertically to some extent during the sewing of a seam. The lower end of the spindle is rotatably mounted in bearings in the spindle supporting devices and lateral turning movements are imparted to the jack by turning the spindle. The spindle supporting devices are constructed and arranged to permit the lower end of the spindle to be moved freely in any direction in a horizontal plane, and to allow the spindle to tilt in any direction about a point at or ad= jacent its lower end, and the tipping movements are imparted to the jack by moving the lower end of the spindle in horizontal directions.

The supporting devices for the spindle comprise a frame 20 supported at the'forward end of an arm 22 pivoted to swing vertically on a yoke 24. The yoke 24 in turn is pivotally supported to swing horizontally on a link frame 25 carried by and connecting' the swinging arms 26 and 28. The forward end of the arm 22 is held up yieldingly by devices acted upon by a coiled spring 30.

The lower end of the spindle is moved forwardly and rearwardly and laterally in opposite directions to tip the jack, and the spindle is rotatedto turn the jack to position the shoe with relation to the sewing mechanism as the point of operation is transferred about the shoe through suitable con nections from a series of cams mounted on a pattern cam shaft 32.

Forward and rearward movements are imparted to the lower end of the ack spindle The by'means of a cam roll mounted on the arm 28 and arranged to engage a cam on the cam shaft 32. The connections for moving the lower end of the spindle laterally from the cam on the cam shaft employed when a right shoe is being sewn comprise a rod 84, a lever 36, and a cam lever 88. The connections for moving the lower end of the spindle laterally when a left shoe is being sewn, comprise a rod 40, a lever 42, a link 44, a lever 46, and the cam lever 38.

The mechanism for rotating the ack spindle comprises a pivoted gear segment 48 meshing with a gear mounted on the spindle.

The connections for swinging the gear seg- S0 ment from the cam on the cam shaft 32 eIn-- ployed when a right shoe is being sewn comprise a rod 50, a bell crank 52, a link 54, a pivoted link 56, link 58, a lever 60, and a cam lever 62. The connections for swingr 35 ing the gear segment 48 employed when a left shoe is being sewn comprise a-rod 64, a bell crank 66, a link 68, a bell crank 70, a link 7 2, a lever 74, and the cam lever 62.

The jack spindle intermediate its lower end and the jack is acted upon by-cables 75 and 76 attached at their forward ends to the disk 77 mounted on the spindle and respecively connected at their other ends with the coiled springs 78 and 79. Through the action of the coiled springs the cables tend to swing the jack rearwardly about the lower end thereof so as to keep the projecting edge of the sole of the shoe in proper position between the work support and resser-foot of the machine. The tension of the springs 7 8 and 79 is controlled so as to cause the springs to exert a comparatively heavy total tension when the machine is'operating along certain parts of a shoe, and to exert a comparatively 195 light total tension at other points. These springs through the cables 75 and 76tend to turn the jack spindle in opposite directions, and their respective tensions are also controlled during the sewing operation so that there is a resultant tendency to turn the jack spindle in a direction opposite that in which it is being turned by the mechanism for rotating the same, above described, thereby eliminating lost motion or back lash in the parts of this mechanism.

The driving mechanism for the machine comprises a main driving shaft 80 connected by suitable gearing with the shaft 82, through which both the sewing cam shaft 14 and the pattern cam shaft 32"are driven.

During the sewing operation the pattern cam shaft 32 is driven from the shaft 82 through mechanism constructed and 2 arranged to, drive the pattern camshaft at 1 variable speed. When a shoe is placed in the machine in position to start the sewing operation, this mechanism is adjusted to drive the cam shaft at the proper speed for the size of the shoe to be sewn through cor tain connections from the "jack; The pattern cam shaft is timed fora-predetermined rela- During the sewing of .a seam the sewing cam shaft is 'driven at a substantially constant speed and tive rate of feed of the shoe.

ations inthe speed of the pattern camshaft to restore the shaft to its proper time relation to the shoe when the shoe is out of time therewith, is also controlled through connections from the jack.

-The connections for driving the pattern cam shaft from the shaft 82 comprisea cam lever 83 operated from the sewing cam shaft, a bevel gear 84 driven from the cam lever 83 at variable speeds through a pawl and ratchet mechanism, a bevel gear 85, a bevel gear 86, and a spiral gear 88 meshing with a spiral gear 90 secured to the pattern cam shaft. 7 The-spiral gear 88 is arranged to be clutched alternatively to the bevel gear 84 or to the bevel gear 86 to drive the pattern cam shaft in one direction in sewing a right ihoe, andin the'op'posite direction'in sewing a left shoe. v

The speed at which" the bevel gear 84 is driven may be adjusted to adjust the speed of the pattern camshaft for the size of the shoe to be sewn, by means of a lever 94' which controls the mechanism for driving the bevel gear through a link96. Variations in the angular position of the lever 94 will produce variations in the speed of the .bevel gear. The lever is adjusted angularly for thesize of the shoe to be sewn, as the shoe is placed in. operatingpositionin the machine through suitable connections from the jack. During the sewingoperation the lever is locked in position. i

The speed at which the bevel gear 84 is driven may be varied to vary the speed of the pattern cam shaft during the sewing operation to restore the shoe and the cam shaft to their proper operating positions when the shoe'is out of time with the cam shaft, by means of a rod 98, variations in I the longitudinal position of which will producevariations in the speed of the bevel gear. 'Thelongitudinal position of the rod 98 also is automatically controlled during.

the sewing operation through suitable connections from the jack.

Theconnections for adjusting the lever 94 to adjust the speed of the pattern cam shaft for the size of the shoe to be sewn, and for controlling the longitudinal position of the rody98 to control the speed of the cam shaft during-the sewing operation from the jack comprise a lever 100 pivoted on a swinging carrier 102 and connected at its forward end jack, and at its rear endwith the left-hand end oftherod 98, and a lever 1 06 mounted by a bar 104 with the forward end of the l on a hanger 108 and piv-otally connected at its forward end with the lever 100. -.;"The

hanger 108'ispi'voted at 110 to the lever 94; This pivotal connection 110 vformsa virtual or effective pivot for the lever 106.1 The lever 106 is swung about its pivot 110 in timed relation to the rotation of the pattern camshaft through certain connections from a cam mounted on the shaft 32.. The connections for moving the lever fron'ithe cainon the cam shaft employed when a right shoe..

isbeing seu'zncoinprise a lever 112, a link 113, alever 114, and a cam lever The connections employed for moving the lever 106 from the cam on the cam shaft whena left shoe is being sewn comprise the'lever 112, a-link 116, a lever. 117, and the cam lever 115. r a a j p When the machine 15.1113 rest with the.' parts in condition for the placingof-ashoe in position in the machine, the rod 98 is 1 7 locked against longitudinal movement and the lever94 is free to swing about its axis I By the placin of the shoe inoperating position in themachine, the lever 94 is adjustl ed angularly through the connections between the lever and the jack in. ax p'osition; i

depending upon the size of the shoe placed in the machine. The adjustment of the le of the lever 106, and also through the link 104") ver determines the position of-the pivot 110, i

96 regulates the speed of the pattern cam shaft forthe sizeof the shoe to besewn. During the sewing operation' the lever 94 is locked inposition while the rod 98 is then unlocked so that it is .free to move lo'ngi-. tudinally. WVhen the shoe is fed at, the pre determined rate relative to, the speed of the v pattern cam shaft, the rod 98, through its connections with the jack,will be maintained in a'constantlongitudinal position. Upon" the occurrence of a variationrin the rate of feed of the shoe from the predetermined rate, the rod 98'will be moved'longitudinally to produce a variation inthe speed of the camshaft to restore the "shoe and the cam shaft to their proper time relations. j

The sewing mechanism, the mechanism for supporting the ack, the mechanism for impartmg'turmng and tlppmg movements to the jack to present the shoe properly to the sewing mechanism, the mechanism acting yieldingly on-the jack spindle to maintain the projecting edge of the shoein po-, sition between the work support and the parts of the jack actuating mechanism, the mechanism for adjusting the speed of the.

pattern camshaft for thesize of the shoepresser-foot and to eliminate backlash in the til to be sewn, and the mechanism for varying the'speed of the pattern cam shaft during the sewing of a seam to restore the shoe and the cam shaft to their proper time relations described above, have the same construction, arrangement andmode of operation as the corresponding mechanisms of the machine illustrated and described in applicants ap plication Serial No. 160,751, and referencemayvbe had to this application for a full and complete description of the same.

The machine'is provided with a movable 'work gage for determining the position or work support, the seam then being located relatively remote from the sole. edge and close to the upper.

Vhen the forepart .of the shoe is reached the gage is moved forward into engagement with the sole edge andlocates the-seam relatively close to the edge of the'sole. Upon reaching the shank of the shoe upon the opposite side thereof, the gage is retracted, allowing. the seam again to be located relatively remote from the sole edge by the engagement of the for ward side of the work support with the up- The work gage is lndlcated 1n the drawings at 118, and consists of a suitablyshapedarm mounted on the upper end of a shaft-120 to swing over the upper surface of the work support '10. The shaft 120 is mounted to turn in suitable hearings in the upright 122 formed on the feed slide 124-, Upon the lower end of the shaft 120 are formed a series of spiral gear teeth 126 meshing with the teeth'of a spiral gear 128 mounted on the inner end of a horizontal shaft 130 journaled in bearings in the feed slide. To the outer end of the shaft 130 is secured a disk 132 formed with a gear segment 13 i, theteeth of which mesh with the teeth of agear segment 136 carried at (the upper end of an'arm 138securedto one end of the shaft 140 mounted inbearings in the braoket'14t2. To the opposite end of the shaft 140 is secured an arm 1&4 carrylng a roll 146 engaging the end of an arm 148 secured to a shaft 150. To this shaft 18 secured a second arm 152 carrying a cam roll arranged to engage a peripheral cam on a: cam disk attached to-the pat-tern cam shaft 32. A tension spring 154 acting on the arm 138 tends to swing the same rearwardlvand maintains the cam roll on the arm 152' in engagement with the periphery of the cam disk. Through the mechanism described,

the shaft 120 is controlled and actuated to maintain the edge gage in retracted position during the starting of the seam along the shank, to swing the gage forwardly into operating position when the forepart 1s reached, and to retract the gage out of operatingposition upon arriving at the shank upon the side of the shoe last sewn.

in the lever 158 and engaging a groove in the lever 156 for adjusting the length of feed. The hand lever 158 swings over a segment plate 160 having a series of holes in which a areplaced pins 162 and 164C to limit the" movement of the hand lever. lever 158 is secured a plate 166 havi-nga downturned forward end. The disk 132 is To the hand i formed with an abutment or shoulder 168- for engagement with the downturned end of y the-plate 166'to swing the hand lever forwardly'to lengthen the feedyand a block 170 formed integral with the disk 132 carries a segmental plate 1'72. for engagement withthe forward end of theplate 166 to swing the hand lever rearwardly to shorten the 1 feed. By this construction, as the disk'132 is rotated to advance the edge gage in pass-- ing from the shank :of the shoe to the forepart, the hand lever 158 is swung. rearwardly to shorten the feed, and as the disk 132*is rotated to swing the edge gage rearwardly in passing from the forepart to the shank,

the lever 158 is swung forwardly to lengthen the feed. I

As illustrated in the drawing,,the machine is provided withia channel-cutting mechanism for cutting a channel in the welt for 1 the reception of the stitches of the seam. The channel cutting knife is indicated at 174 and is mounted on the feed slide with its upper end engaging in slot in the work With the knife mounted on thesupport. feed slide the knife executes its cutting stroke during the retracting movement of' the feed slide for vertical movement so that it may be projected above the upper surface of the work support 'into' position to engage the welt, or withdrawn below the upper SUI? face of the work support outiof operating position. When the seam is started along the shank of a shoe the knife is withdrawn out of operating position; Upon arriving at the forepart of the shoe the knife is pro-r jected upwardly through the work support into engagement with the welt, and operates to cut a groove or channel in thewelt inwhich the stitches are laid. When the shank of the shoe upon the side of the shoe last sewn is reached, the knife is withdrawn out of operating position. The welt thus channeled by the cutting knife about the forepart of the shoe and is left unchanneled at the shank. I

In the construction shown, the knife is formed at'the upper end of a knife bar 176. The upper end of the knife bar is arranged to slide in asuitably-shaped opening ina projection'178 on the feed slide which forms a guide for the upper end of the bar. The lower end of the knife bar is formed with an opening in which engages an eccentric sleeve 180 mounted on a pin 182 projecting from a collar or sleeve 184, the sleeve being held in position on the pin by anut 186. The sleeve'lSt is mounted on the shaft 12-0 and is formed with interior screw threads of steep pitch engaging corresponding screw threads 187 formed on the shaft. The inter engaging threads on the shaft and sleeve are arranged so thatas theshaft is turned to by the projection178 close to the knife dur ing the cutting'stroke of the knife, thereby eliminating any danger of bending the knifebarp Having explained thenature and object of the invention, and havingspecifically'described a 'machine embodying the "invention in its preferred form, what is claimed is:

1. A sewing machine forsewing soles to the welts of welted shoes, having, in Combination, stitch forming devices, a shoe supporting jack, mechanism forv changing the relative positions of the stitch forming devices and the jack to present the shoe properly to the stitchforming devices as the point of operation istranSferred aboutthe' shoe, a work-engaging knife, and automatic mechanism for throwing the knifeinto and out of operation at predetermined points in the formation of a seam. v

2. A sewing machine for sewing soles to the welts of welted shoes, having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a shoe supporting jack, mechanism for-changing the relative positions of the stitch forming de- Vices and the jack to present the shoe prop-.

erly to the stitch forming devices as the point of operation is transferred about the shoe, a knife for cutting a stitch receiving groove in the work, an automatic mechanism surface of the ,work

mation of a seam.

l for. throwing the knife into and outof op- .eration at predetermined mation of'a seam. 1

3. A'sewing machine for sewing solestoj the welts of welted shoes, having, in combipoints in thefornation, stitch forming devices, a shoe supp porting jack, mechanism for changing the relative positions of the stitch'forming devices and the jack to present the shoe properly to the stitch forming devices 'as'i the point of operation is transferred about. the

"shoe,- a movable gagefordetermining the position of the seam with relation to the edge of. the sole, a work engaging knife, and automatic mechanism for shifting the gage. and for throwing the knife intoiand out. of operation at predetermined 5 points in the formation of a seam.

4. A; sewing machine for'sewing soles to the welts of welted shoes, having, 1nco1'nb1- nation, stitch forming devices, work feeding :means, mechanism for adjusting. the

length ,of feed during the operation ofthe machine, ashoe supporting jack, mechanism for changing the relative ."positionsrof the stitch forming devices and the jack to present the shoe properly to thestitch forming "devices as the point of operation is transferred about the shoe, a movable gage for determining th'e position of the seam with relation to the edge-of the sole, a work it engagingv knife, and automatic mechanism 1 for shifting the gage, for operating the feed adjusting mechanism to change the feed 7 length, and for throwing theknife into and 1. out of operation at predetermined points in the formation of a seam:

'5. A sewing machine for sewing soles "to the. welts of welted shoes, having, in. coma .bination,stitch forming; devices, a work'engagingknife arranged to remain continuously inactive during the formation. ofa' seriesof stitches, and automatic mechanism for thr'owingthe knife into and: outof operation at predetermined point-S, in the for- 6. A sewing machine/ for sewing solesto the welts 0f welted shoes, having, in combi- 1 nation, stitch forming devices, work feeding means, mechanism for adjusting the length of feed during the operationof the machine, a movable gage fordetermining the position of theseam with relation to the edge of the-so1e,a work engaging knife, and

automatic mechanism for shifting the gage,

for operating the feed adjusting mechanism to change'the feed length, and for throwing the knife into and out. of 0 eration at predetermined points in the 'ormation of a seam. v a i i 7. A shoe sewingmachine having, in c0mbination, stitch. forming and work guiding and feeding. devices for sewing a seam extending around the periphery of a shoe, a work engaging knife arranged to remain continuously inactive during the formationofa series of stitches, and automatic mechanism for throwing the knife lntoand .out

.of-operation during the continued operation of the stitch forming devices in sewing a 8. A shoe sewing machine having,in combination, stitch forming devices, a shoe sup porting jack, mechanism for changing the relative positions of the stitch forming devices and the jack to present the shoe properlyto. the stitch forming devices as the point of operation is transferred about the shoe, work cutting mechanism arranged to be placed e1ther in an active or 1n an inactive. condition, and automatically actuated and controlled means for shifting said mechanism from one of said conditions to the other at a predetermined point in the formation of a seam.

9. A shoe sewing machine having, in com- .bination,.stitch forming devices, a shoe supporting jack, mechanism for-changingthe relative posltlons of the stitch forming devices and the ack to present the shoe properly to. the stitch forming crevices as the point of operation is transferred about the shoe, a work cutting device arranged to re- ,;111&iI1 inactive during the formation of a "SGTIBS of stitches and automatically actuated and controlled mechanism for throwing said cutting device into operation at a predeteranined point in a seam formation.

mined point in the formation of the seam.

11. A sewing machine for sewing soles to the welts of welted shoes having, in combination, stitch forming'devices, a work engaging knife arranged to cut a stitch re ceivingchannel in the work, a movable gage for determining the position of the seam and a camand suitable connections for'moving the knife into and out of operative position and arranged to project through aslot in the work support in line with the needle in the direction of feed, and means acting automatically to move the knife into and out of operative position.

13. A sewing machine for sewing. soles to the 'welts of welted shoes having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support, a feed slide, a horizontal shaftmounted in the feed slide, a vertical shaft mounted in the feed slide, a work gage at the upper end of the shaft, operating connections between the shafts, means for rocking the horizontal shaft, a work engaging knife, and connections between the knife and the vertical shaft for moving the knife into and out of operative position.

14. A. sewing machine for sewing soles to the welts of welted shoes having, in combination, stitch forming devices,.a work support on which the welt rests during the sole sewing operation, a feed. slide, a knife mounted on the feed slide engagingthe-work at the point where it is supported by the work support, a work gage mounted on the feed slide arranged to engage the work in proximity to the work support, a shaft mounted on the feed slide, means for rocking the shaft, and "coimeotions to the gage and knife for shifting' the position of the gage andrfor moving the knife into and-out of operative position.

15. A sewing machine for sewing soles to the welts of welted shoes having, in comhination, stitch forming 'devices, a work support, a horizontal shaft mounted below the work support, a vertical shaft, a work gage atthe upper end of the shaft, operating connections between the shafts, means for rocking the horizontal shaft, a work engaging knife, and connections between the knife and the vertical shaft for moving the knife into operative position.

LAURENCE E. 'TOPHAM.

and out of 

